Sorry Guys,

I did try to search and have been working on my Bronco all day...with no success. I need to get it going by Monday.

History: 1990 Model, 302 engine, Full Size,

Everything working fine until yesterday when I turned the key and NOTHING happened. Well...not "nothing" but no start. Heard fuel pump prime up but the turning of the key felt funny, no spring tension or return.

O.K., ignition switch...I figured, done that before...no big deal. Went to pull Ign. switch and the harness connector had been hot and gotten brittle, it broke in two when I removed it.

Got a new ignition switch and connector, switched the wires over to the new connector (double checked position against my wiring diagram). Installed new ignition switch and nothing, no fuel pump prime or dash lights, or electric windows.

Unbolted the ignition switch to make sure I had it in the right position for the actuating rod, it was. Tried it again, nothing. Checked ALL fuses, all are good, removed fuse box and checked the back of it, all looks good.

Swapped out the Fuel Pump relay and EEC Relay with my spares, no change.

Manually moved the ignition through ALL positions and can not get my dash lights, windows, radio, blower, or any attempt to start.

What the heck is going on? I have a full set of manuals (factory Ford) and electrical schematics, but I am short on time to troubleshoot this thing so any plausible ideas would be appreciated.

I traded the new ignition switch for another one awhile ago...thinking it could be bad...but no change.

Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long winded explanation, but without some preliminary info...I would be wasting your time.

Flint.

I've got a center console out of an 86-91 bronco, and I need a lock for it. Mine is busted. I am having no luck finding one on the Internet, any luck? Thanks.

Started my truck this morning and noticed my air wasn't blowing. After checking under the hood and seeing everything was alright I checked my fuse block under the dash. Found the culprit and the AC blower fuse had melted along with the bottom corner of the fuse block. I looked under there for a bit but can't figure out how to remove the fuse block so I can replace it without blindly cutting wires away and not having a way to redo them.

been trying to install my EB overhead console and can't get it to work right in my 89'. the lights and VFD screen was working lastnight but only when the headlight were on. so i took that wire to the battery and put a on/off switch in line and had to ground the switch and now only the lights are working and not the VFD screen and yes i turned the switch on. it's starting to make me mad. have no clue how to fix it.

I hooked the sensor wires together(LB/O, DB/Y), hooked up ground (BK), then ive hooked the hot in run(W/P) to the battery with the inline switch, the door lamp switch(BK/LB) is hooked in the fuse panel for the door lamps, and the battery wire(LG/Y) is ran to the batter with a inline 15a fuse. the illumination wire(LB/R) is ran to the fuse panel off of the same fuse for the dash lights.
then the speed in wire(GY/BK) is not hooked up, i was told is a choice so i skipped it.
what am I doing wrong?

Background:
When i put my C6 in two years ago I broke one of the nipples on the fuel sediment tank that is roughly under the driver seat normally. I bypassed the tank with replacement fuel line.

Bronco was running fine, but had a fuel leak. Fuel leak was from replacement line that broke down over two years. I replaced that line once again with line that is supposed to be fine with the ethenol in gas now.

After replacing the line I let the bronco run for 5 minutes or so to make sure the leak was fixed. I decided to take it down the road and about as soon as I got out of the driveway it started to run rough. I was able to get it back to the house and now it won't start.

When I turn the ignition to on, I hear the fuel pump coming one, and I have fuel at the rail when I press down on the schrader valve. I was taking the front passanger spark plug out to check for spark and broke off the ceramic, so I just went ahead and replaced them all. They were about 3 years old so it made sense. I do have spark.

I can't see losing compression instantly, so I didn't bother getting the compression guages out.

I also checked the fuel filter that is in the driverside framerail and could easily blow air through it.

Any ideas what could be the issue?

i have a 94 bronco 5.8 eddie bauer; the number ten, four amp fuse keeps blowing and the instrument panel lights don't work anymore. I can't figure it out; I unplugged everything that i could find with the light blue/ red wire: cigerrete lighter, heater control, 4X4, defrost and it seems the fuse has stopped blowing, but the instrument panel lights still don't work.
A couple of months ago, I installed a aftermarket radio, I read somewhere to check that I didn't hook the lb/r wire up wrong, but I'm not sure what "wrong" means.
Any help would be much appreciated!

When my engine was rebuilt in the fall of 2010 I had, of course, a new water pump installed.

Last week I started to get this horrible squealing, knocking sound from the front of the engine - it turns out that the front bearing on the pump has died.

I can't see anything wrong with any of the other pulleys - but it seems odd for such a new pump to just die like this.

Am I just unlucky, or could something else have caused this pump to die?

Has any one done a 429/460 swap and used an FL300 or FL820S In-stead of a remote filter?

looking at the massive amounts of rust on my shocks, coils, and leafs, i looked at replacing all of these parts. while pricing all of the parts, i had an idea to do a simple 1 in" lift kit. i was looking to get 1" raised coils, pro comp shocks, and leafs. is there anything im missing to make this work or is there a reason why i havent seen anyone alse do this?

Looking to rebuild both my aod trans and transfer case. My AOD is starting to slip and the transfer case "clunks" from a stretched chain. Want to rebuild everything while im in there. Searched and theres a good right up on the transfer case rebuild and got some information for the AOD. But, still got some questions. What special tools do you need to rebuild an AOD Auto trans? I have a basic understanding of an Auto trans. I want to build it stronger with firmer shifts. Any suggestion of what rebuild kit to go with? Is TGI good? So I understand, it involves replacing the clutch bands/packs, input/output bearings, better servo, stronger pump, and some other things. Also, want to install a shift kit in the valve body while im in there. Kevlar clutches? I understand from some Mustang guys that they tend to slip under light throttle going into overdrive. My biggest complaint about the AOD is that it needs to hold 3rd gear longer before OD because when you have to slow down, it keeps shifting in and out of overdrive. Shift into regular drive at that speed, then you loose gas mileage and not anybetter than having a C6. Basically looking to make the AOD stonger and better and less sloppy shifting, i know its not gonna be a 4R70W or something, but still much better is good enough. Also, I read you need a new torque converter when you do a transmission overhaul? Is this true? Also, is a transmission overhaul something that can be done by the home-mechanic if you carefully follow the directions?

Now the transfer case......JBG sells a seal and bearing kit I see. Def want to replace the chain and new bearings and seals. I guess I also need new clutch fork inserts and a oil pump kit? Along with possibly a new T-case motor, since the current one might fail anytime now. Anything else that can be replaced?

Any other suggestions?
Thanks-