So after a few years of having the 1st gen roll bar (which I really liked) I decided that I need and would really benefit much more from having a sleeping platform.

Now I have a. more square footage for sleeping, b. don't have to unroll and roll up sleeping foam matts and c. have more storage room under it (also up top in my cargo box since I don't have the sleeping matts).

This is the roll bar before the platform:


This is the frame work:


This is the play wood:


This is the carpet matting (two layers):


This is the vinal cover:


These are the front turn buckles keeping it anchored (there are two in the rear as well):


Cost:
wood/screws: $40
carpet pad $24 (a LOT cheaper then foam)
vinyl $25
turn buckles $8
total $97

Very pleased with the outcome, sturdy, comfortable, lots of storage and room to sleep. Can't wait to try it out!

If you do a lot of camping in rough weather, surfing, skiing and/or don't always feel like setting up a tent or don't have a good place to do so, I highly suggest this. I can only guess it will be much better then sleeping back there w/o out it!

2000 5speed v6 4runner. When I drive for long enough that the engine is completely warm and stop. Then I start it again. It will run normally for 30 seconds then the idle will drop. It will go from 400-900 and keep bouncing. If I drive it will bog and not go over 1500rpm. To get it going I need to rev the engine until it stop bogging and backfiring. Then its good to drive again. Also in second gear when I accelerate hard. From 3000-3200 rpm it will shake like its not getting gas and then be good thorough the rest of the rpms. What's going on?

Working on replacing my tie rod ends right now. I got the drivers side done with no issues, it looked like it had been replaced before. The passenger side has been giving me all kinds of issues. It looks like it's the factory stuff still. I can't for the life of me get the damn jam nut to loosen. Is the passenger side reverse threaded? (Left Tight, Right Loose) playing around with the replacement it doesn't seem like it but I could certainly be wrong. I soaked both sides in PB Blaster every day for a full week before.

If I can't get it would it work to just disconnect the outer link and pull both the inner and outer together as one piece? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't but in all the write-ups I've read I haven't seen anybody do it this way.

I searched all over and couldn't find answers to these specific questions, I apologize if they have indeed been asked before. Thanks in advance for the help.

When flushing, do you guys remove the filter and replace with new before a flush and then replace with a new one after?

Or do you flush first and then replace the filter after you've flushed?

I checked the dip stick and there is just a tiny spot of milkshake on the very end. I think the tranny pumped out most of the milkshake already. Hoping a flush will take care of the rest.


Did anybody else's radiator fail to the point that mixed fluids exploded out of the bottom or the radiator? I can pour water into the top and it pours out the bottom just as fast. I have milkshake all over under hood, inside the fenders, down the sides and up on the rear window.

So.... I have been working on ressurecting a 97 tacoma with a 3RZ. It has 93k on the ticker. This truck was parked on the wrong side of town and suffered a bullet through the intake plenum and valve cover as well as the wire harness, which melted at the impact point. To this point I have replaced the harness, valve cover, intake and some relays. I can now get the truck to start and run but my main problem right now is the idle fluctuates high to low to high in a continuous cycle. temp does not effect the idle issue, It does it when its cool and warm. The little valve that pushes controls the throtle pushes it in and out. I have checked all the hoses and cleaned the TB but it doesnt help. The coolant is topped off, it has new oil and filter, cap and rotor. I also checked the TPs which seems to be working fine.
What do you think I should try troubleshooting next?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Hi, first post here. I am now the proud owner of a pristine 1998 4Runner and I have a few questions about it. Should I get this air intake? http://www.autoanything.com/air-inta...0A2646850.aspx My goal with getting the intake is to increase my MPG and maybe engine life ? I dont really care about more HP, I will mainly use the 4Runner to get to work and the occasional driving along dirt roads in the mountains to get to my hiking spots and fishing areas. Another question... Should I go full synthetic oil in a 98 4Runner ?

Need to figure out why I'm having starting issues out of my Tacoma with 90k miles when I put gas in it it doesn't hardly wanna start and it won't idle also does this if I don't run it for a few days any ideas what could be doing this it's got me confused

I've been doing a lot of reading about the ISR mod for our trucks, everything seems pretty straight forward except for the FPR hose for a supercharged truck. I have no idea where to put it...lol...any help would be greatly appreciated. Pictures would be a big plus!

Thanks,
Fred

I recently acquired a 96 2wd 2.4L tacoma that's been modified to house a SAS front end so now it's 4wd and it also has the 3.4L V6 in it. The Gauges all work and appear and it runs great, no hesitation or knocking when under throttle. I would naturally assume the 2.4L pump is smaller than the 3.4L V6 pump. I also know it doesn't have a filter in line from the tank up. It seems like it will take a few cranks to turn the engine over to run and then it smells really gassy some times for a few seconds. Other times it fires immediately. I'm wondering if this has something to do with fuel pressure.

If I got a V6 pump out of a wrecking yard and the fuel line from the tank to the engine or rail would everything bolt up or is the tank completely different and fittings and stuff?

Thanks for the help.

Hi Folks,

I'm thinking it would be a good idea to install a separate transmission cooler. I love milkshakes, but not pink ones they're messy.:nono: So I was thinking that I should install a separate transmission cooler and just plug the old rad. I didn't buy one yet, but in researching, Hayden seems like a good bet, but their instruction manual says to not install separately unless the radiator failed and is costly to fix (and then upsize the cooler). I'm wondering if anyone has installed a separate one, what you installed and what you think of it. And, how did you plug the old rad?

thanks!