Hi everyone. I plan on waiting and buying a 2013 model. My primary use will be an every day driver,50-50 hwy,city, possible light trail use on the weekends now and then, 200-250 miles a week, keeping the doors off and top off all summer. I want to buy a 6 speed Sport 2 door. Anyone have advice on wheel-tire size and rear end gearing ? Based on the way I'll be driving every day, I want to max out the best mpg I can get. I'm gonna put some miles on this puppy. Thanks ! :thumb:
Category Archives: JK Jeep Wrangler Forum
2 Door Jeep Wranglers Without Rear Seats
Greetings All,
I need to ask for a favour please :-)
Anyone with a 2 door who has taken out the rear seats; can you please post a few pictures?! I'd like to show the shots to a security cage maker to see what they can design for me. I'm looking to fill the entire rear and perhaps have it go all the way up to the roof, and attach it to the roll cage, as well as somehow attaching it securely to the floor. Playing with ideas at the moment, but pictures will really help!
Many thanks,
Edmond
I need to ask for a favour please :-)
Anyone with a 2 door who has taken out the rear seats; can you please post a few pictures?! I'd like to show the shots to a security cage maker to see what they can design for me. I'm looking to fill the entire rear and perhaps have it go all the way up to the roof, and attach it to the roll cage, as well as somehow attaching it securely to the floor. Playing with ideas at the moment, but pictures will really help!
Many thanks,
Edmond
my trektop nx thoughts
installed my NX yesterday on my 2012 and its a very nice top. install wasnt that bad just, a few minor things. the directions say 1 hour...it took me 3. its my first top ever so i knew i would have problems. im happy the header came assembled out of the box. big plus!
the negatives i encountered
- the zipper clip was bent and couldnt get it started on the teeth. after 10 mins i realized this then used a flathead screw driver to widen the gap.
-i dont like the clips that attach inside the soundbar, they dangle there and look ready to pop off. i originally thought the straps would wrap around the sound bar.
- this part is my fault, cause i was getting excited towards the end and stopped using the directions. i installed the tailgate bar first before attaching the back window:doh::facepalm: i zipped the one side and the other side was a good 4 inches off, then i stood there looking how to attach the window to the tailgate...it was a mess
my install process
-layed out the top in the sun for 1 hour. ate lunch then protected the inside plastic with 303
-followed the dirctions (until the tailgate bar step)
-before installing the windows i closed the header and tucked the sailcoth tabs under the tub. let sit in the sun to bake and stretch. this is where i got excited and got off track with the directions.
-installed windows in the sunrider postion ...then closed the header:thumb:
we still get cool nights here in NJ so i hope going from hot to cool temps will aid in the stretching
my only question is...where do i install the thin foam strip on the header?
does anyone have a picture of that step or a link to another writeup with pictures. i cant tell on the bestop installation pictures
i give the bestop trektop nx a rating of :thumb::thumb:
the negatives i encountered
- the zipper clip was bent and couldnt get it started on the teeth. after 10 mins i realized this then used a flathead screw driver to widen the gap.
-i dont like the clips that attach inside the soundbar, they dangle there and look ready to pop off. i originally thought the straps would wrap around the sound bar.
- this part is my fault, cause i was getting excited towards the end and stopped using the directions. i installed the tailgate bar first before attaching the back window:doh::facepalm: i zipped the one side and the other side was a good 4 inches off, then i stood there looking how to attach the window to the tailgate...it was a mess
my install process
-layed out the top in the sun for 1 hour. ate lunch then protected the inside plastic with 303
-followed the dirctions (until the tailgate bar step)
-before installing the windows i closed the header and tucked the sailcoth tabs under the tub. let sit in the sun to bake and stretch. this is where i got excited and got off track with the directions.
-installed windows in the sunrider postion ...then closed the header:thumb:
we still get cool nights here in NJ so i hope going from hot to cool temps will aid in the stretching
my only question is...where do i install the thin foam strip on the header?
does anyone have a picture of that step or a link to another writeup with pictures. i cant tell on the bestop installation pictures
i give the bestop trektop nx a rating of :thumb::thumb:
Handgun Owners
How many of you folks use a holster system mounted inside your Wranglers? I am looking for a place to attach a holster so that I am not continuously punched in the kidney by my M&P (normal carry locations is about 4:30 IWB - but that is useless seated in a vehicle). I would also like to see your holster types and gun pics.
Teraflex 2.5 budget boost install
I finally got around to putting my 2.5 teraflex budget boost (with shock extensions) on my 2012 JKUR as well as the teraflex exhaust spacers and spidertrax wheel spacers. Although others have done it in 4 hours it took me the good part of 9 hrs..... Mostly due to the horrible install directions by teraflex and having to modify things during the install. Everything went smoothly until it was time to mount the track bar drop bracket. I used the provided template and made sure it was perfect before drilling only to find that the drop brackets hole thats bolts to what I just drilled was offcenter.....thanks Teraflex. I had no choice but to make the 3/8 hole a little larger to get things to line up. This of course caused the large bolt hole with the sleeve to not line up. I had to use a bolt hole alignment tool to bring the bracket and factory mount back in line. Got it mounted and it was very tight with no issues. Next issue on rear install was that after mounting brake line extensions, the driver side brake hose was resting on the shock absorber. Not wanting to cause abrasion issues, i had to slightly curve the black steel brake line to help direct the hose away from rubbing on anything. Final problem with rear was that the directions had you install the sway bar links a certain way but it was obvious when looking at links that Teraflexs way was wrong way. Upon switching the links around they were now installed correctly.
On to the front.....the front was mostly painless except for two issues. The front passenger side top shock bolt was indeed a pain as others have found. I just dremeled out an access slot to reach the nut. It was easy after that. Finally, Teraflex does not tell you what to do with the bracket that holds the brake hose after disconnecting it to allow the axle to drop down. When I put it back together and put the brackets back in the stock location, it was clear that at full drop the brake hoses would be stretched. I called Teraflex, they were closed. Called Quadratec, they said mount back in stock location......wrong answer. I didnt want to remove the brackets and zip tie hoses to shocks like in AEV kit so my neighbor who was helping me fabricated some mounts that moved that factory brake hose bracket up about two inches. Now hoses arent stretched at full drop and they still are in their factory brackets.
Exhaust spacers and wheel spacers were painless.
Im very happy with the final product. Jeep rides like stock and has no driveability issues after. My steering wheel might be off a tad but its barely noticeable. Final measurements netted me about 3 inches on front and a tad more than 2 inches on rear.
Now I know this thread is worthless without pics so Ill have to somehow transfer from my iphone to laptop and post my pics.
Dave
On to the front.....the front was mostly painless except for two issues. The front passenger side top shock bolt was indeed a pain as others have found. I just dremeled out an access slot to reach the nut. It was easy after that. Finally, Teraflex does not tell you what to do with the bracket that holds the brake hose after disconnecting it to allow the axle to drop down. When I put it back together and put the brackets back in the stock location, it was clear that at full drop the brake hoses would be stretched. I called Teraflex, they were closed. Called Quadratec, they said mount back in stock location......wrong answer. I didnt want to remove the brackets and zip tie hoses to shocks like in AEV kit so my neighbor who was helping me fabricated some mounts that moved that factory brake hose bracket up about two inches. Now hoses arent stretched at full drop and they still are in their factory brackets.
Exhaust spacers and wheel spacers were painless.
Im very happy with the final product. Jeep rides like stock and has no driveability issues after. My steering wheel might be off a tad but its barely noticeable. Final measurements netted me about 3 inches on front and a tad more than 2 inches on rear.
Now I know this thread is worthless without pics so Ill have to somehow transfer from my iphone to laptop and post my pics.
Dave
Hi-lift
just wondering if anyone has had an issue with their hi-lift rusting out, had it for about 2 weeks now and it has a good coat of surface rust on it. Not a big deal but im just thinking about how long it takes for the internals to possibly sieze up on it now.
Horn Alarm
Just as I got out of my JKR this evening, the horn started blowing for about 30 seconds. Pressing the PANIC or lock or unlock buttons on the keyfob had no affect. Starting the vehicle with the horn blowing had no affect on the horn. Jeep started right up with the horn still blowing. Pressing on the unlock button starts the horn blowing again for about 30 seconds.
Any ideas? Can't find anything in the manual and my searches aren't showing anything.
Tks.
Any ideas? Can't find anything in the manual and my searches aren't showing anything.
Tks.
Got it Dirty.. Finally!!
I finally had a chance to get her dirty and head up Aspen Mt. First time since putting in the TF 2.5 and 35" TSR's. Rode great, tires worked well in the mud and rocks. My daughter loved the bounce and even fell asleep (have no idea how she was able to do that). Cant wait for more!
2010 jk(u): Important recall notice for fire issue
Chrysler recalls nearly 87,000 Jeep Wranglers due to risk of fires
DETROIT - Chrysler is recalling nearly 87,000 Jeep Wranglers in the U.S., Canada and elsewhere due to a risk of fires.
The recall affects only Wranglers from the 2010 model year that have automatic transmissions and were built before July 14, 2010.
The recall was announced by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration on its website.
It says debris can get caught between a plate that protects the transmission and the catalytic converter, causing a fire. A catalytic converter is part of the exhaust system and uses heat and precious metals to control pollution.
Chrysler spokesman Eric Mayne says the recall affects about 68,000 Wranglers in the U.S., 6,000 in Canada, 1,500 in Mexico and about 11,000 in other countries.
Chrysler knows of at least 14 complaints of fires caused by the problem with 2010 Wranglers.
The company says it doesn't know of any injuries. It says debris can get trapped when the SUVs are driven off-road or through tall brush.
Chrysler, which makes the classic Wrangler and other Jeeps, will fix the problem free of charge by replacing the plate with a bar so debris doesn't get caught.
Chrysler will contact all the owners by mail. Recall work is expected to begin this month.
The NHTSA also checked Wranglers from the 2007 through 2012 model years and determined that only the 2010 models had the debris problem. Mayne said the 2010 Wranglers had a transmission plate and catalytic converter that were configured differently than the Wranglers from the other model years.
NHTSA said in documents that it had received 14 complaints of Wrangler fires from the other model years, but Mayne said there was no pattern or common cause in those fires.
http://news.yahoo.com/chrysler-recalls-nearly-87-000-jeep-wranglers-due-170654228.html
DETROIT - Chrysler is recalling nearly 87,000 Jeep Wranglers in the U.S., Canada and elsewhere due to a risk of fires.
The recall affects only Wranglers from the 2010 model year that have automatic transmissions and were built before July 14, 2010.
The recall was announced by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration on its website.
It says debris can get caught between a plate that protects the transmission and the catalytic converter, causing a fire. A catalytic converter is part of the exhaust system and uses heat and precious metals to control pollution.
Chrysler spokesman Eric Mayne says the recall affects about 68,000 Wranglers in the U.S., 6,000 in Canada, 1,500 in Mexico and about 11,000 in other countries.
Chrysler knows of at least 14 complaints of fires caused by the problem with 2010 Wranglers.
The company says it doesn't know of any injuries. It says debris can get trapped when the SUVs are driven off-road or through tall brush.
Chrysler, which makes the classic Wrangler and other Jeeps, will fix the problem free of charge by replacing the plate with a bar so debris doesn't get caught.
Chrysler will contact all the owners by mail. Recall work is expected to begin this month.
The NHTSA also checked Wranglers from the 2007 through 2012 model years and determined that only the 2010 models had the debris problem. Mayne said the 2010 Wranglers had a transmission plate and catalytic converter that were configured differently than the Wranglers from the other model years.
NHTSA said in documents that it had received 14 complaints of Wrangler fires from the other model years, but Mayne said there was no pattern or common cause in those fires.
http://news.yahoo.com/chrysler-recalls-nearly-87-000-jeep-wranglers-due-170654228.html
Rear caliper won’t come off?
OK..was rotating my tires and noticed my e-brake was not engaging as usual so I wanted to adjust it. Took the two brake calipers bolts off my left rear, but I cannot slide my caliper off. Jeep was in park with the e-brake off. It was if the pads were engaged onto the rotor.
Anyhow, just wanted to know if I missed a step or need to do something different. Every other write up I have seen for brakes or e-brake says the caliper should just slide off.
Thanks!
Mike
Anyhow, just wanted to know if I missed a step or need to do something different. Every other write up I have seen for brakes or e-brake says the caliper should just slide off.
Thanks!
Mike
