My original 1.8k series blew up and I managed to get hold of a low mileage engine from a lotus Elise series 1, I have fitted the engine but am having problems getting it started, I have checked that all sensors are plugged in but still it wont fire up. I have left the lotus inlet manifold and fuel rail with injectors on the engine, could this be the problem? Any ideas on what to check or try would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

I've just had to replace the 10 month old exhaust centre section that I bought from Eternal (:hysterically_laughi) Exhausts on E bay which had split around the silencer end flange . Fortunatley I had a genuine LR spare but the thing that's really annoying me is the rasp that is emitted on load and overrun .
It's been there for some time now and I had put it down to a collapsed cat but that was two cats ,two front downpipes and two rear silencers ago!
Is anyone else suffering from this problem on a 1.8 petrol ?

my neighbour has a freelander 2 07 plate

he has had lots of problems with diffs and axles and his current problem seams to be diff or bearing related and theres a bad whining

he has found info relating to landrover technical buletin 342 about problems with pinion bearings and races but you cant access the info unless your a dealer

his dealer ottons of salisbury are saying theres no such problem but his motor has been back and forth with the problem never being resolved

any ideas or info for him?

Hi guys, this is my 2nd land rover but first on petrol..am changing fuel filter..have removed locking ring... how to remove plastic sealing cap???? trying not to break anything????? (1998 1.8 freelander)

Towing our caravan today with my 2005 TD4 HSE Auto to the Peak District and the sat-nav took us along a B road with quite a long steep hill. I took it fairly easy to get up the hill, didn't floor the throttle, just crawled up at around 30mph. At the top of the hill, temp needle went off the scale and we had steam etc.

I pulled over and switched off the engine immediately, antifreeze mix boiled and had blown out of the expansion tank cap (a new cap fitted just a week ago). Let the engine cool down and managed to get some water to top the engine back up. It took about 2.5 litres to get back to the max level mark on the tank.

After about 30 mins, restarted the engine and all seemed ok so towed the last 10 miles to the caravan site. At the site, the level had dropped again below the min mark but the ex tank hadn't emptied. Figured this could be down air in the system finding its way out after refilling.

Topped the coolant back up and went for a drive without the caravan and all seems fine.

Fans work ok with the ac on but don't come on when the engine is just ticking over and the temp gauge doesn't go over half way.

Thinking maybe the fans didn't come on when they should have done. I understand the fans are ECU controlled so there must be a temp sensor in the block?

Anyone had experience of this happening, is there a sensor that can be replaced so I can rule this out? As far as I can tell, no coolant is leaking from anywhere.

Towing the caravan home on Monday and thinking I might just get us recovered rather than risking it happening again, and get it into a garage to be checked. Didn't have any engine management lights come on.

hi there my name is helen and ive now been the owner of my freelander for roughly 6 days, i feel ive been done over though and wonder if anyone can help. I bought an r reg freelander diesel, i was informed by the seller that it had a 2wd conversion as it handled better, used less fuel and tyre tread. After my somewhat jetlagged dad (he'd flown back from oz the previous night) had a quick once over he said he couldnt see any problems, took it for a test drive thought it was fine. Day 2 an annoying ticking noise occcured until you took your foot off the accelerator/depressed the clutch. This annoying ticking on day 6 has turned into a rather nasty sounding clunk every time you remove your foot from the accelerator/release the clutch, there is also a rotary noise accompanying said clunk. In case you hadnt noticed im not mechanically minded so the above terms are clearly not the technical ones lol. Basically im wondering is there something in my description that sounds familiar or any advice? My mechanic dad has now bugered off to angola and wont be back till september so cant even ask his help :( I figure that the guy that sold it to me knew what he was doing and im pretty hacked off, i would actually like to drive said jeep through his windows at the moment!!

Hi
I only have one key + fob,The other day I nearly locked my car by accident with the key in ignition including the fob.
My question is if I had another fob that was programmed to the car would it have unlocked the door even though the other fob was inside the car.
I know this sounds silly but at the moment I cannot afford to go out and buy a new key and a fob and have them proggramed at the moment,but I can afford a new fob and have that proggramed to the car.
Thank you.

Hello All,

Has anyone got any experiece of using the DIFFLOCK Evoloution1 oil in a Freelander ('04) TD4 manual gearbox ? ( http://shop.difflock.com/difflock-evolution-fully-synthetic-gear-litre-p-51.html ) I am changing all my transmission oils to fully synthetic (dif already done now) and am about to purchase this expensive stuff. However, would well appreciate views from others and even other options.

If you read their own write up its the best thing since sliced bread but don't see many reviews on here for the Freelander.:confused:

Cheers
David

Hi all,

Just a quick question..

I have been reading all the old posts about adding 2stroke to diesel engines and that green mineral is required? However, I have the following which is red/low ash etc before I put it in could some kindly confirm this is ok.

Thanks again

CASTROL ACT EVO 2T
Features
Modern mineral 2 stroke motorcycle oil
High performance additives protect components from deposits in use
Good lubricity, protecting pistons from scuffing
Good protection against exhaust system blocking
Low ash formulation to reduce pre-ignition and catalyst deterioration
Designed for both oil injection and pre-mix systems up to 50:1
Start and Go!
Castrol Act>evo 2T is a modern mineral, high quality 2-stroke engine oil for modern engines.
Continuous Protection for easy Start & Go
Its Deposit Protection Formula is designed to provide continuous protection against the build up of carbon deposits on the engine and spark plug during use, keeping them clean to ensure fast and reliable starting. Castrol Act>evo 2T has been designed to give superior protection for modern 2-stroke engines.

Hi guys,

I'm getting bloody sick of this knocking noise. It's distracting, and causes me to drive overly cautiously for fear of breaking whatever it is. I'm only driving short, unavoidable journeys at the moment but I'd like to actually go places in this car so i want to sort this out once and for all. The only way I can see is to work through a process of elimination. First I did the rear diff mount, no change, fitted the missing bolts between the IRD mounting bracket and the sump, no change. So the next step is to see if it is to do with the VCU or props. I want to remove the whole lot and see if it still complains. Is there anything I should be aware of when removing the VCU and props? I don't intend on keeping it off forever, just until I fix this blasted knock and get the money together for new tyres and VCU.

If that doesn't work I'll try the anti roll bar bushes. After that I don't know what else to try. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Will.