I have a ’99 GU ST wagon, and it has leather trimmed gear knobs and steering wheel. I believe this to be standard fitment for this model. Can someone please confirm this?

My old man has a ZD30 in a 2000 model GU, rebuilt engine, out of warranty.
It started making a noise on start up that was quite a harsh rattle from the motor.
It has progressed to a constant rattle that changes pitch with RPM
I have not heard it since it got worse. My brother says that it is loudest under the L/H wheel arch. He says its not turbo. Could it be the balance shaft? Read somewhere that bearings are not replaceable.

Anyone had similar or know of similar problem?
Thanks

Gday all I have a series iv manual 3 ltr that seems to be going into limp mode but its not overboosting. It will do it in first gear taking off boost gauge doesnt register or I can be doing 80-100 boost at about 10 psi (wont go above 15psi at all) hasnt got NADS only boost gauge. could this be the MAF or TPS or something else ? was running fine. This started after I done a service (oil oil filter air filter all genuine dello 400 oil cleaned MAF that wasnt dirty) havent done fuel filter yet but is ready to go on aprox 291000 k any thoughts ????
I am about to order a new MAF through nizzbit but was after ideas first
Cheers

Hi all radiator top tank let go this afternoon. Pulled out the offending item, it was a bastard to get out. Not to disconnect that was easy, but to actualy get it out of the narrow slot.
Am I a goose did i do something wrong? Do you remove the radiator with the cowl attached or separately?
I removed the lower cowl coller, pulled off all the hoses, un clipped them from their seats, removed the spigots for the transmission oil lines etc.
What I can’t figure is why neither the fan shroud nor the radiator could be slid up nor could the two still together. The viscous coupling on the fan fouls the cowl big time. The cowl fouls the radiator if you try to remove just the radiator leaving the coul behind, similarly if you try to remove the cowl and leave the radiator it jams on the fan. I was stumped ended up forcing it and damaged the cowl at the bottom.
So in order not to damage the new one (when I get it) any in put is welcome. Also any tips on good value replacements available in Sydney quickly? Also Should I replace the hoses and belts whilst I have it off?

Hi all I have been reading a lot of posts on this site with some conflicting info…

I have a new CRD 350 ks on the clock (just sold my gu4) and want to do the best by the new one, I have boost, pyro gauges and 3" tipanxp on the way and have installed provent and snorkel.

I will be blocking egr on the weekend, do I need to install Dawes and neddle valve? Or does the CRD ECU handle it better than the Di? And if so are the Di instructions the same for the CRD.

Thanks.

I’ve not been pleased with the Patrol brakes. They have little feel, and poor retardation. On long downhill runs (such as heading into Dargo from the north) you finish up with smelly and useless brakes unless you really take it easy going down.

I’ve read about the use of 4.8 front pads which users have found much better, but it doesn’t change the rears and it doesn’t change the Dot3 boiling liquid.

So I have just fitted these QFM pads and changed fluid to Penrite Super Dot 4.

I’ve only travelled a few k’s with them so far, but with 33" tyres I can now actually feel the car stopping, and regulate the retardation – rather than just pressing a dead feeling pedal and waiting for it to slow down. They will get their full test at Dargo later this month – will test on the downhill run, and test them wet.

Hi
I am looking a t putting rims from a 2002 gu on my 2011. Will I have any problems fitting them. Will the offset be ok?

Also they are 33" 285 75 16 and I have a 3 inch lift Will the 33" tyres scub. Thanks

I am looking to buy a new hitch to put on my Series VII GU, for an 18′ 6" Jayco Pop top; and am tossing up between an EAZ lift or Hayman Reece.

Which is the best unit; and are their advantages and disadvantages of each type.

Can anyone give me a detailed description of how to remove this thing.
The rope has broken off so I need to take the Power device off and replace the rope.
I took off the outer mudguard mould strip and opened up the inner guard cover about 1/2 way without completely removing it but the power antenna seems to be almost impossible to access.
Do I have to take the inner guard cover completely off and if so how do I undo the strange looking Clips/ devices, nearest the inside of the mudguard that hold it in place , not the screws which I had removed?
If that has to be done how the hell do I actually get to the power antenna in such a small space?
I wonder if it would be cheaper and easier just to bung an new antenna ( a fixed one , not retractable ) on the bull bar and wire it up to the radio.
:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

Quick question to anyone who may know. Are the diffs in the new model patrol same as the older model’s? The rear on my 2001 is nearly as good as a locker always engaging both wheels. Trying to decide if i will require only a front locker need a rear also.

Thanks fellas