First let me say this is my first Jeep and first 4x4 vehicle.

Well found a great deal on an 89 YJ with 76k original miles. No visible signs of abuse underneath and had clean carfax. Ran smooth and started great. Drove straight down the road. It does have a few minor signs of wear but it is 22+ years old so didn't expect perfect.

It has a stock set up and the dealer or previous owner put 31's on it so needless to say it rubs on the leaf springs with full turn and and the fender flares occasionally. So what is best way to raise it to fix these problems and how much. I don't care to run any larger size tires than the 31's on it. Suspension or body lift??

One advantage I have is that my neighbor (friend) owns a Truck & auto 4x4 aftermarket store and has mentioned before if I ever needed anything he could get me a good deal. So I will be able to use that for sure.

Here is my FB album to share.

first, yes i know i'm crazy and its a bad idea to have 35's on stock d30/35 axles(its only a 4 cylinder though...)
just wondering if it'd be a good idea, eventually i have some 38.5's and a d44/ford 9"(and an 8.8") all 5x5.5 axles that i'll be building soon, but for now i'd like to run these slightly worn 35's for a lil more clearence and better float. I already have a RC 4" kit, but i'd like to know if a 2" body lift and extended rear shackles would be a good idea, or scrap the shackle idea and just put tj flares in the rear....i can drive it around and only rub on very bad bumps(basically right back where i was with 31's and no lift)
the kit seems settled already so i don't think its going to loose much more lift. just wondering if a 2" body lift in general is a good idea, there is very minimal rust on mine, if any at all, body and frame are solid, no rust holes ANYWHERE....anyhow, here's a pic or 2
and yes, the f150 is my tow vehicle, i don't drive the jeep much anymore since i had to cut the muffler off(exhaust broke out the back of muffler when i was out mudding)

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Anyone knoy where I ccan get a fuse box (in cab) for a 91?:angel:

Hey everyone. I'M in the process of getting my 92 YJ roadworthy. Yesterday I replaced all the U-joints on the drive shafts and all the seals on the transfercase and differentials. After I took the yolk off the rear diff the pinion wobbles back and forth, is this a bad bearing or is it that the bearing just lost its preload when I took the yolk off? I just dont want to waste a seal on it if I have to take the thing apart to change the bearing. What do you think?

Hey everyone, I have a 95 YJ with the 4 cyl. Last night I shut it off and oil POURED out of it. Filled it back up and limped it home to my garage. Cleaned it all up this morning so I could see where it was coming from. Started it up and crawled under it, and it looked like it was coming out of the passenger side of the oil pan at the gasket, about midway down the pan. Figured the pan gasket had failed, so I spent the better part of today replacing it. Fired it up and took a spin. Pulled back in the driveway and shut it off, and PUKE: oil POURING out of it still, in the exact same spot. A closer look shows that it may actually be coming from higher up, but I can't see where. The head gasket is good, no oil in the coolant or visa-vera. Very discourgaed. Anybody got any ideas? Could the block be cracked? I can't see in there because of the motor mounts (this seems to be the general area that it originates). If so, how does this just happen unexpectedly without provocation? Can it be repaired? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Branden

hey guys, my jeep was running fine and I decided to install a CB radio. When I was putting it under my dash, i heard a spark go off and noticed the power wire going into my radio popped out of its wire nut. It was nothing big, so I pulled the radio out and rewire nutted it. Now my jeep wont start? I don't see any bare wires, and my headlights and cation lights work. But i get no power to start the jeep or use the radio or CB...

i did check the big fuses under the hood and they looked okay, but i dont know how to read the fuses that go in the big outlets.

anybody know what it may be?

So I failed my state inspection due to my muffler rotting away on my 1995 YJ. So talked to a few people and decided to put a cheap 30 dollar muffler from advanced in just to get past the inspection. Talked to more people which they all said it was easy and shouldn't take me more than a hour or 2. Well I don't have the best place to work, rocks are hard and ticks are everywhere so maybe i'm just missing something.

6 hours later after having to cut the muffler from the cat, and then cut the tail pipe out, a complete mess. So now I have a new muffler and a new tail pipe from walker, 2 new clamps all from advanced where they said it wouldn't be pretty straight forward.

So I included a picture. it seems the hangers on the front of the tailpipe towards the muffler the 2 hangers are to big to fit over this (tie rod, not sure what that bar is, its arrowed in blue) I feel after I get over that I can wiggle the rest in.

I have read on this site to lift the body and not the axle on the passanger side??? Or should I remove that tie rod alltogether?

Not sure how to do this, I don't have major tools. I have a high lift, but feel thats unsafe to lift the body and begin to work on it.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Keith

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Hi I have a ? about a pilot bushing for a ax 15
I hope I can explain this, I'm doing an ax 15 swap from a BA 10 the old transmission had a pilot bearing, the new trans kit from advance adapters has a pilot bushing. The crankshaft has two step pilot holes about a 2" in the front and a 1" in the back, I called advance adapters about setting the pilot bushing in the front slot and I received two different answers from two different employees. One said to grind out the deeper slot he said it was a metal sleeve but it looks like part of the crankshaft then set the bushing there. Ive never heard of this nor could I find anything about this on the net. The other employee said to set in the first slot and that was OK. but that makes it flush with the end of the crank I'm worried it will interfere with the clearance on the input shaft from the transmission. Hoping someone has the answer Thanks 88 YJ, 4.2, howell TBI, soon ax 15 with SYE

Does anyone know of good mechanic in South west fl. need a engine

I have stripped the torx screws holding the tps to the throttle body. Not sure how to remove them. I have tryed cuting a slit in one and turn it out with a flat screwdriver. But it still wont move. Could i be wrong in trying to turn left to remove? Any help would be great.